Device for cutting coat-sleeve patterns



' oct. 5,1926. 1,601,985

A. sNn-:GQCKI v DEVICE FOR CQEENQQQQEE@ PATTERNS Filed Nov. 25. 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. //YT/O/VY SN/EGOCK/ tion 12.Y j

Patented Oct.

iiivi'r se STA rss PATENT oFFics.

ANTHONY SNIEGOCKI, OF SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA.

This invention DEVICE Foa CUTTING soar-SLE EVE PATTERNS.

Application-filed November 25, 1925. Serial No. 71,275.

relates to a device for laying out coat sleeve patterns.

Tt is the principal object of the present invention to provide a generally improved de- 5 vice of the character referred to which is capable of adjustment so that it may be adapted for use in laying out coat sleeve patterns of any desired size,

and which will form a coat sleeve pattern in perfect'proportion throughout, regardless of the dimension of the sleeve. In carrying out this object I provide a device including upper and forearm sections which are pivot'ally and so that they may form a sleeve of be relatively` adjusted to any desired length. An

elbow section is also connected with the sections previously therewith.

mentioned for cooperation So that the patterns formed by the device will imite perfectly with an armliole in a coat, a

plurality of armhole templates are mounted on the device in a manner whereby any selected one may be easily placed in cooperative position relative to the different arm sections.

The device is capable of fully laying the patterns for hotli the uppersleeve and the innersleeve simiiltaneoiisly.

@ne form which the invention may assume is exemplified in and illustrated by the following description way of example in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a view manner in which arranged relative readiness for use.

of the device showing the the armhole templates are to the upperarm section in Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic'al view illustrating the use of the device.

Referring more panying drawings, 10 indicates laying out coat sleeve patterns.

particularly to the accoma device for The device comprises an upperarm section 11, a forearm section 12 and Yan elbow section 14. These sections are slidably and pivotally connected so that the forearm section may be extended relative to thevupperarm section in forming sleeve patterns sleeves.

Reference being for different lengths of had to Fig. 1 it will be noted that the elbow section 14 is pivotally connected as at 15 to the upper arm section 11. The other end of the elbow section is fitted with a guide pin 16 which extends throughV a slot 17 arm section 12 an formed in the forearm sec- This connection between the fore- I d ,the elbowsection 14 per-l slidably connected mits sliding and pivotal. movement between the' forearm section and the elbow section.

The cut of the section is such cuif portion of the forearm that the cu will be flared,

and for this reason the guide pin 16 is positioned so that the flare of the cuff will always commence place relative to at approximately the same the elbow section and will regulate the length of the flare so that it will be in perfect proportion to the length of the sleeve.

At the opposite side of the device, the forearm and upperarm sections are formed with longitudinal pin 19 extends.

with collars arranged slots 18 through which a guide This guide pin is formed on opposite sides of the device so that the forearm and upperarm portions of to each other.

the device may slide relative Theguide pin is fitted with a yclamping nut as is the guide pin 16 so that the sectie ns of the device may be clamped together after they have been relatively adjusted to suit the user.

Pivotally mounted as at 20 on the upperarm section are a plurality of armhole templates 21 which are arranged in progressively increasin drawings. a centering These hole 22l which may be engaged sizes as indicated on the templates are formed with witha centering pin 23 fixed to the upperarm portion. to engage the plates in position This pin'projects upwardly holes 22 and maintain the .temr on the upperarm section.

The centering pin 23 is provided with a nut 24 to clamp the templates on the centering pin. `When the nut 24 is removed, a selected one of the templates may be swung to operative Vposition as indicated in Fig. 2 rela- Vtive to the upperarm section 11. To maintain this selected template in proper position relative to the iipperarm section, the templates are each formed with an aligning opening 25 which may be engaged by an aligning pin 26 tion.

fixed on the upper arm porpins 16 and 19,

the forearm. section may be adj-usted relative-to the uppe'rarm section.

If it is "desired in length when to finished, the forearm section is adjusted relativelyto the upperarm sectionv .until the i ndicating mark 28 registers make the sleeve 18 inches z llO with thenurneral .18 on thesscale... The nuts desired.. Aline is thentracedalong the on the .pins 16 and19 maythen be clamped to hold the parts in adjusted position.

To Oive the sleeve .thero er curvature...

regardless of its length, the upper and forearm sections are formed With indicatingy lower edge of.. the forearm .portion -and along the inner edge presented by the combined upper and forearm..sectionsor the edge 31. This line is continued around the positioned armhole template.-v The inner edge 33 of the lines 29 which should constantlywbe-main--templateeletiningetheeupper end of the untained in alignment. When .these lines are in alignment, the upper and forearm sectionswof thefdevice Will be .relatively are ranged .to give-,the .proper curvature to the sleeve:

1n .laying out a pattern .by using my im.-

proved device, if .the circumference oifxtheV sleeve at'its upper end, which is supposed'to equal. that otthearmhole in the coat is 18 inches,. the.4 armhole template Whiclrisn18V inches iii-circumference is 4swung to operative. ,positionandthere 'maintained by. meansv oit' the aligning pin 26.

Adjacentthe v.upper .andouter .edges of the upperarm pattern, a..series.for".openings 30 are Aformed Which vare'spaced equal distances apart laterally of. the lupperarm` section and are arranged la proper distance fromthe in# ner .edge 31.0t1 the,upperarm.sectionso as to indicate the proper point to cut the goods to# obtain awidth ot'sle'eve corresponding Withthearmhole opening. Fory example, should the armhole be 18 inches.: in circumference, a mark made: on theV pattern material through the opening adjacent' the numeral 18 ,on the scale. 30.5Will provide a Width otsleeve properly proportionate to the armhole; It should be `stated tliat the numeralsl adjacent-.the

openings 30 ind1cate.inches; The numeralof each hole ind-icate'tvvicefthe distance f' in inches between. the inner. edge of the upperarm-section and the hole-r Thisiis'A due to the` factthat a double thickness 'of material is used yto form theV sleeve.

To determine thediaineterf'otthe lower-.0r cuil1 end "of thesleeve, a scale 32'isprov1ded i at'rthe lower end of the forearm section. The

circumference of the cuff ofthey sleeve may be determined .by marking on .thepatternat any point/along. this scale.x` Each inch on the scale'is numbered tvvice its valuefdue vto the ac't'that a double thickness of goods-.isvcut` to make the sleeve.

In operation of .thedevice, a double thiclc' ness of patternpaper is laid 'flat-:andi my improved device is placed thereon; It the farm'- hole is 18 inches in circumference, the 18'- inch iarmhole;A templateffischosen: and arranged: in; proper-:relative .position-ron. the

upperarm lsection/'11. The "forearm section papervadj'acentithefdiinensioiizon;theascale correspjQndin-g with? thexcirciimenencefoculi -dersleeve pattern, the outer edge 34 of the armhole template defining the upper end of the uppersleeve z pattern.

It will be noticedgthat-at itsouterend, the` armho'leftemplate isfo'rmed with a notch 35. The outer extremity ot'this notch delines-thel outer-edge of the undersleeve, While ythe eX-. treme end 36 of ,the tem-plate defines the outer edge'ot the `uppersleevepattern. Ama-rk is then.` made through the proper openingl 3()YV corresponding to the:d1mens1on:of;.the arme.

hole` pattern. f

To give sectional lines forv joiningythe,Vv

sleever parts.: after they are.` cut,` .1. provide openings' 37 adjacent.the..upper end ofthe upperarmsection 11. I alsof provide similar openings y38 adj acent' .the cuil?. of the sleeve for givinga line l.sho-Wingthe;finished lengthA of the cult; The lmaterial beyond. these latcent thecuti'.V This opening 39 and the inner:

ter openings being:themportionv turned inv opening.,3??L adjacenti.;tlie upper. end :of the. device; being spaced` equaldistances l-'romthefA .in-ner edge31 of the device/so.that-aline may` be drawnY on., the p atterri'. intersectingrthese. i

points to denethespressing line'of the sleeveV when fini-shed;A

center ot the Vsleeve orl elbow thereof,- theup.- per. and lforearm sections; are.V formedxvith :cross 'slots lll adjacent.` the .inner edge 31.

To give central section line exactly atthe Adjacent the outer-edge the ends of `thelre-V spect-ive psection.: are cutaway l to form a elbowsection y14 4is vformed withan opening so that a mark may be made 1n the crotch. Alinedrawn between marksA made 1n the opening formed by the crossslots 40 andinl the Crotch; e111 ivill. be; a .central centerline the rvcuz-"r" and the' upper `end of the sleeve The lower end edge of the device isf-eme.'

ployed Yasia i straight edge fte.l draw. line made lots 10,;Qa

dots-.193?? for hird line; f-intersectingthe through the slee-ve exact-ly half-Way between.

crotch.; Inalignmentiwiththisecrotch,the

`115 Which-.is .indicated by.- a notche. A-markAv onV the pattern.isalso.l made-at this notch' :tovv giveapomt; deiiningthe flipper" end ofv the..

intersectinglthe dots "38% for-med through .the Y open-ings 38,2, which line..;indica testhevfend` oi' thee-'utfA Whenpfinished. Simi-lar lines arel also-:formed which, intersect .the marks .41?. through fthecrotfohj :lll andlthejcross and 37a. The outer edge of the pattern is then used to draw a line from the point A to the point B which intersects with the dot C made through the opening 30. A second line is then drawn by the use of the outer edge of the elbow and gprpeAra-rinu sgctionsY from a point onthe line just previously drawn where it is intersected by the elbow center line to the point indicated at D which is marked from the notch 35 on the armhole template. This gives a correct line defining the outer edge of the undersleeve. The inner edge 31 of the combined upper and forearm sect-ions is then utilized while drawing a line through the points E and F. The point E being marked through the lower opening 38, the point F being indicated at the termination of the curved edge 38 of the armhole template.

The patterns thus laid out may then be out. These patterns will be of sufficient size to allow for seams at their joining edges and for a hem at the cuff. It will be noticed that the undersleeve pattern is smaller than the uppersleeve pattern, this being due to the fact that it is not desired to have the seams on the crease which is ultimately formed when the sleeve is pressed. This crease line may be drawn through the points G, H and J The points Gr and H being indicated by marks made through the openings 39 and 37a, the point J being indicated by marking through the notch 42. The material between this line and the inner edge of the uppersleeve pattern is folded over to unite with the undersleeve pattern, sufficient material being provided to allow for a seam. vVhen the under and uppersleeve are joined and sewed together, the diameter of the uppersleeve will be exactly 18 inches or that which is selected in commencing the pattern. Likewise the cuffI will be of a diameter corresponding to the dimension on the scale 32 at which the mark A is made.

'Vhen cutting the pattern, the. points where the sectional lines intersect the defining edges of the pattern, V-shaped notches are cut.- Vhen sewing the sleeve these notches permit the edges to be properly aligned so that the sleeve will be correctly shaped. Y

It is manifest from the foregoing that by the use of my present device, a sleeve of' any dimension may be quickly and properly laid out and cut. Also that a sleeve laid out by the use of the present device will be properly shaped in perfect proportion and the inner and outer sleeve portions may be correctly united to form a properly shaped sleeve.

Nhile I have shown the preferred form of my invention, it is to be understood that various changes in its constructionmay be made without departing from the spirit of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. A device for formingpcoat sleeve patterns comprising an upperarm section, a fgreagrgwsegion, connections between the forearm section and the upperarm section whereby they may be relatively adjusted to form a sleeve pattern of a desired length, said upperarm and forearm sections being provided with graduations for defining the width of a sleeve, and armhole templates pivotally mounted on the upperarm section, and means whereby a selected armhole template may be placed in a correct position relative to the upperarm section to cooperate therewith informing a sleeve pattern.

2. A device for forming coat sleeve patterns comprising an upperarm section, a forearm section pivotally and slidably connected to the upperarm section whereby they may be relatively adjusted to form a pattern for a sleeve of a desired length, and armhole templates of progressively increasing sizes pivotally connected to the upperarm section, and means whereby a desired armhole template may be placed and held in a correct position relative to the upperarm section for cooperation therewith in forming a sleeve pattern.

3. A device for forming coat sleeve patterns comprising an upperarm section, a fore-arm section, an elbow section, connections between said sections whereby the device may be extended to form a pattern for a sleeve of a desired length, said connections maintaining the sections in desired relative positions regardless of their adjusted positions, said upperarm and forearm sections being provided with graduations for defining the width of the sleeve, and armhole templates pivotally connected to the upperarm sections and adapted to be swung to an operative position relative to the upperarm section to cooperate therewith in forming a sleeve pattern, means for correctly aligning the templates relative to the forearm section.

4. A device for forming coat sleeve patterns comprising an upperarm section, a forearm section, an elbow section, connections between said sections whereby the devicemay be extended to form a sleeve pattern of a desired length, means for correctly aligning said sections to form a sleeve pattern of correct shape relative to its length, said forearm section and upperarm section being provided with graduations for defining the width of the sleeve pattern, andarmhole templates pivotally connected to the upperarm section and adapted to be disposed and held in correct operative position relative to the upperarm section.

5. A device for forming coat sleeve patterns comprising an upperarm section, a :forearm` section, an elbow. Section, connections between said sections whereby the device, may be extended to form a sleeve pattern of a desired length, means for correct-VV ly aligning said sections to f orln a sleeve pattern of correct shape relative. to its length, said forearm section and upperarm section being?,` provided with graduti-olrsorden'" ing the Width of the sleeve pattern, and armhole templates pivotally connected to the upperarm section and adapted to be disposed and held in correct operative position relative to the upperarrn section, and means for locating` the sectional lines of the sleeve pattern in their correct positions.

ANTHONY SNIEGOCKI. 

